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Balancing tourism with preservation

San Franciscans Dive into Waterbar

Even residents will brave the Embarcadero for a taste of Parke Ulrich's locally sourced menu.

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New San Francisco restaurant Waterbar.
Val Atkinson
By Joohee Muromcew

Although many San Franciscans consider the Embarcadero nothing but a tourist magnet and, for that reason, a place to avoid, they have only raves for its newest restaurant, Waterbar.

The dramatic views from the dining room, framed by the Bay Bridge overhead, are matched by an interior that has been conceived as a beautiful hydroelectric plant, with floor-to-ceiling cylinders that house a varied and colorful population of Pacific sea life. An ideal dinner begins with scallop-and-sea-urchin seviche, followed by local petrale sole. Most of the menu is locally sourced, but executive chef Parke Ulrich also lavishes diners with treats from farther afield, such as oven-roasted Dover sole, flown in fresh from the English Channel.

Come back the next night for dinner at the new Epic Roasthouse, Waterbar's sister eatery on the Embarcadero. The cuisine there is, happily, as out of this world as at its sibling restaurant next door. 399 The Embarcadero; 415-284-9922; waterbarsf.com.

Published on 6/23/2008
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