Buying a Vintage California Home
For anyone who has ever dreamed of chucking it all in and sipping Cabs and Chardonnays for a living, Napa and Sonoma are just across the Golden Gate Bridge.
By Jamie Gross
Verdant rolling hills, world-class restaurants, wineries that rival the best in France. Who wouldn't want to live in northern California's bucolic wine country? The harder question is, How? In this hot spot, where even vacant land runs upwards of $1 million and top properties are sold to insiders before they hit the open market, it's not easy to secure a patch of paradise at any price. "Because there's so much demand, not much is available," acknowledges Nicki Naylor, a Sonoma-based Realtor. "But if you're really patient, you can get whatever you're looking for." She should know; it took one of her clients three years to find the perfect place—a gorgeous seventy-seven-acre homestead planted with fifteen acres of old Zinfandel vines that hadn't changed hands since 1853. Now that's a keeper.
The Lay of the Land
For a long time, Napa Valley was considered the wine country's most sophisticated destination, while Sonoma Valley, to the west, was its more countrified relation. After all, Napa has almost 400 wineries (including big names like Mondavi, Coppola and Beringer) and a handful of idyllic towns: tiny Yountville, its formidable restaurant row anchored by the legendary French Laundry; glamorous St. Helena, known for great shopping and a thriving social scene; and at Napa's northern tip, mellow Calistoga, with its hot springs and a main street reminiscent of a Wild West movie set.
But these days Sonoma Valley is garnering its fair share of the limelight, attracting celebrities looking for a low-key escape and dot-commers seeking an easy commute to San Francisco. Two of its most desirable towns are Sonoma (about forty miles from the Golden Gate Bridge) and Healdsburg (about 65 miles from the bridge); both have picturesque plazas surrounded by excellent shops, restaurants and tasting rooms.
Who You'll Meet
Everyone from families who've farmed here for four generations to well-known winemakers, CEOs, investment bankers, celebrities (Robert Redford, Danny Glover) and founders of major Internet companies. You'll find them in their flip-flops at the local farmers' market fondling heirloom tomatoes and present in full force at high-profile fundraisers such as the Auction Napa Valley, to be held this year from June 7 through June 10.
Where to Stay
At Calistoga Ranch, forty-six cedar-shingled cottages epitomize the good life, California style. An open layout encourages movement between indoors and out. Never want to leave? Buy into the private-residence club and you can linger for weeks. Rooms from $525, suites from $725. 580 Lommel Rd., Calistoga; 800-942-4220; calistogaranch.com.
Hotel Healdsburg The hippest place to stay in Healdsburg, with a buzzing lobby bar and stylish, tranquil rooms in a natural palette (the best have balconies overlooking the town plaza). It's co-owned by chef Charlie Palmer, whose Dry Creek Kitchen in the hotel spotlights local produce and wines. Rooms from $265, suites from $500. 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg; 707-431-2800; 800-889-7188; hotelhealdsburg.com.
Where to Eat
Cyrus Maître d' Nick Peyton and chef Douglas Keane opened this elegant restaurant two years ago to showcase luxury ingredients in fresh ways: witness the salt-cured tourchon of foie gras with peanut butter and jelly. The dining room is hushed and romantic, with a vaulted plaster ceiling, shirred Austrian window shades and a Champagne and caviar cart that's wheeled tableside to kick off the meal. 29 North St., Healdsburg; 707-433-3311; cyrusrestaurant.com.
Redd At this favorite of local winemakers, chef Richard Reddington creates sparkling seasonal dishes that mesh flawlessly with wine. Turn yourself over to the knowledgeable waitstaff and sommelier, who deftly pair dishes like caramelized diver scallops and Alaskan halibut saltimbocca with selections from the eclectic eighteen-page wine list. 6480 Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-2222; reddnapavalley.com.
What to Do
Wine Tasting If you're too overwhelmed to tour the wineries alone (or want to swallow all those tastes), book a customized driving tour with the St. Helena-based Magnum Tours (707-753-0088). For one-stop shopping, visit the Vintner's Collective (1245 Main St.; 707-255-7150; vintnerscollective.com), in Napa, a tasting room and shop that highlights obscure, often pricey wines from eighteen small vineyards.
Shopping The top boutiques are in downtown St. Helena. Be sure to check out the handmade confections at Woodhouse Chocolate (1367 Main St.; 707-963-8413; woodhousechocolate.com); the exquisite French antiques at Jan de Luz (1219 Main St.; 707-963-1550; jandeluz.com); and the design shop Martin (1350 Main St.; 707-967-8787), which is stocked with art books, furniture and objets d'art from around the world.
The Power Brokers
Barry Berkowitz is especially adept at multi-acre estate and vineyard sales in Napa. St. Helena Real Estate; 1346 Main St., St. Helena; 707-967-9570; barry@winestates.com.
Nicki Naylor specializes in Sonoma and Napa Valley ranches, estates and vineyards. Pacific Union (a Christie's affiliate); 640 Broadway, Sonoma; 707-933-2102; nnaylor@pacunion.com.
Gina Papale White is a second-home guru, focusing on the Napa Valley. She also handles short- and long-term rentals. Ritchie-Hallanan Real Estate; 1150 Main St., St. Helena; 707-322-1620; gwhite2741@aol.com.
LOG-IN TO POST A COMMENT
POST A COMMENT