Dinner at eight? Don't even think about it in Cartagena, Colombia, a seaside city where the heat dictates everything and day easily merges into night. On my recent visit, I quickly learned that the streets, squares and plazas, lit by streetlamps in the evening, are most alive after midnight, when beautiful women in wide white skirts swirl endlessly to the rhythms of Mapalé. Horses with rusty lanterns function as taxis, not just tourist rides. Bullfighters and generals flirt with aristocratic women at La Vitrola, the best restaurant in town. Cartageneros have an unself-conscious relationship with their colonial-era past--even though that history has been tainted by the drama of missionaries, invaders and the Inquisition. Today nothing in Cartagena is as it seems. It's no coincidence that the city is frequented by Gabriel García Márquez, the author who popularized magic realism.
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